By Julia Ruhl
In September 2017, after a few years of dreaming about the possibility of this adventure and having recovered from serious orthopaedic surgery and again feeling fit, I arranged to undertake this iconic tour including the two day ritual trek, the “kora”, around Mt Kailash. Over the past five years, I have completed quite a number of memorable and enriching Himalayan tours all with EncountersNepal.com: trekking in the Anna Purna, travel to Tibet, Bhutan and Darjeeling and Sikkim, so it was great to be accompanied by Rishi Nepal, proprietor of EncountersNepal.com once again on this life changing trip. Before proceeding with the booking following a particularly bad flu season in Sydney, I ensured that I was completely healthy, as to undertake tours and trekking at the high altitudes you traverse on this trip, both lungs and legs need to be in tip top shape.
In September 2017, after a few years of dreaming about the possibility of this adventure and having recovered from serious orthopaedic surgery and again feeling fit, I arranged to undertake this iconic tour including the two day ritual trek, the “kora”, around Mt Kailash. Over the past five years, I have completed quite a number of memorable and enriching Himalayan tours all with EncountersNepal.com: trekking in the Anna Purna, travel to Tibet, Bhutan and Darjeeling and Sikkim, so it was great to be accompanied by Rishi Nepal, proprietor of EncountersNepal.com once again on this life changing trip. Before proceeding with the booking following a particularly bad flu season in Sydney, I ensured that I was completely healthy, as to undertake tours and trekking at the high altitudes you traverse on this trip, both lungs and legs need to be in tip top shape.
Lhasa greeted me again with its imposing Potala Palace aloft the hill overlooking the city and after a few days to acclimatise to the 3656 metre altitude by visiting some of the surrounding monasteries and markets, we departed on our road trip with an excellent safe driver and a local guide as well. The perfect turquoise waters of Yamdrok Lake shimmered in the Autumn sunlight surrounded by green hills dotted with grazing yaks and bursts of bright yellow flowers, while the icy snow of the Karola glacier a couple of hours further on, glittered with reflected mountain cloud and made a beautiful contrast to the hundreds of prayer flags adorning its base.
Reaching Lake Manasarovar on Day 8 was a significant milestone on this trip. The name “Manasarovar” is derived from two Sanskrit words: “manas” meaning “mind” and “sarovara”, “lake”. Hindus believe the lake was created by the mind of Lord Brahma and that anyone who drinks its waters will be cleansed of all their sins. The lake is holy to three other religions: Bon, Buddhism and Jainism. It is a serenely beautiful landscape and you can watch devotees from these religions performing rituals on the side of its waters and bathing in them. The ancient Chiu monastery sits majestically on a mountain top overlooking it. The monks utilise a basic stone outdoor latrine nearby which commands the best views over the lake and surrounding mountains which I have ever seen from any “bathroom” anywhere! The guesthouse nearby and very close to the lake’s edge provided warm bedding and a simple pancake and tea breakfast was taken in a teahouse heated by a fire nearby.
The highlight of this enriching trip of a life time was the ritual walk, the “kora” around the base of the sacred mountain Kailash. The walk is approximately 50 kilometres and is completed by most people over 2 - 3 days. It is considered medium to difficult in grade for average walkers due to the high altitude of the track. The small town of Darchen (4675m) is where you stay before and after completing the kora and it is quite challenging for someone who lives at sea level, as I do, to reach the highest point, the Drolma La at 5630m. Guides do carry small flasks of oxygen to assist if you start to feel the effects of the high altitude such as headache, nausea, dizziness, weakness. On this trip, I had already spent 11 days in Tibet and had been climbing gradually through the mountains on this tour, so while I did get a little light headed and breathless near the high pass, the Drolma La, a little slowing of the pace, lots of rest stops during the climb and a few puffs of oxygen from the aerosol container, really assisted my successful completion of the walk. Both Rishi and the local guide, Jampa, were so supportive and encouraging as well as exercising caution regarding the pace of the ascent, so at all times I felt safe. There are occasional tea houses along the route where you can enjoy a mug of hot steaming tea and a simple snack. We also all carried fruit, nuts and chocolate with us as you need to replenish the calories spent as well as drinking plenty water. At this altitude the air is very dry, the sun is also so strong so you must ensure that you stay properly hydrated. The overnight accommodation at Dira Puk opposite the monastery was simple, shared dormitory style. We also shared the surrounding slopes with many yaks and beautiful scenes of the sun setting over the surrounding mountains. While this accommodation was very basic, the experience of this trek is so uplifting and you are so tired yet filled with joy by the scenery and the people you encounter along the path, that falling asleep with exhaustion is easy!!! There were hot meals made to order in the nearby teahouse so no-one went to sleep hungry or thirsty. The next morning after hot tea, eggs and bread, we set off once again along the path leading to the pass. The sight of the local Tibetan people in their colourful costumes in the arid mountain landscape sometimes tinged with light snow falls, was wonderful. Many prostrate themselves the whole way and spend three weeks to complete the kora, wearing gloves to protect their hands from the dust and stones. Such commitment to their religious beliefs is truly moving. Some local people shared biscuits and baked goods with other pilgrims and walkers as part of their goodwill to others on this spiritual trek. The views, the devout, beautifully adorned local people who sprint up these steep paths at altitude with no difficulty at all, the exhilaration of the hike through such rough yet stunningly imposing terrain and the sight of snow covered, proud Kailash, the”home” of Lord Shiva looming above, are images imprinted on my mind and in my heart forever.
From Darchen at the end of the trek, we drove on towards Everest Base Camp.The sight of Chongmolongma in the late afternoon light being stripped of her mid girth veil of cloud before our eyes by the wind gusting down from the high ranges, was just magical. Around sunset, we entered, with humility, the Buddhist monastery at Ronbuk, the highest in the world at 5000m and Rishi presented the nun who was there with his Bodhi seed necklace which she accepted with grace, humility and also great warmth. This was such a moving moment.
After spending the night in the cosy inn and breakfasting with wonderful views, we departed on our return journey towards Lhasa, passing magnificent lookouts and view points of the majestic mountain giants of the region. In Shigatse we walked around the monastery with pilgrims in the morning sun and rested enjoying wide views over the valley and town.
A visit to Tibet is a transformative experience. Buddhism breathes from every rock and mountain. Mandalas, prayer wheels, burning juniper fill your senses wherever you go. The red robes of the monks, the sleeping dogs in the monasteries, the paintings, the statues, the yaks and sheep grazing in the mountain pastures, all become part of your own heart as you experience Tibet. I returned from these 17 days to Kathmandu, a richer person in my senses and soul.
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